I have lived in Cologne for a while, and if there is one thing that Cologne is known for, it’s the iconic Kölsch-style beer. Most beers are either ales, which result from top-fermenting yeast and being conditioned at warmer temperatures, or lagers, which typically use bottom-fermenting yeast and are conditioned at cooler temperatures. Kölsch is peculiar in that it’s brewed and fermented with warm, ale-style yeast but then conditioned at cooler temperatures.
I honestly never quite liked Kölsch beer, but you get used to it after a while, especially if it’s the only beer available in the majority of bars.
Regardless, I decided to go around and try all the Kölsch beers with some friends over the span of a few days. I then discovered that there are way more Kölsch breweries than I had initially anticipated: at least 27!
Due to the amount and difficulty in locating some of them, we didn’t sample all of them, but we tried all the ones I knew plus some new ones. And without further ado, here are the beers and some short thoughts on them!
Päffgen
Not bad, and with kind of zesty aftertaste. I’ve been to that brewery a few times, and every time, the staff just seem to be rude and dismissive, bordering on ignoring you, which always makes me hesitant to ever go there. A shame because the beer is otherwise fine.
Mühlen
This is my favorite. It’s full-bodied and smooth, and it’s practically the only Kölsch I will ever purposely buy.
Gaffel
This has the distinct Kölsch taste that initially turned me off from a Kölsch beer. I am not sure how to describe it, but there’s a very unique taste on the back of the tongue that just shines a bit too brightly with this one for me.
Bonus: Sonnen Hopfen
Not a Kölsch beer, but it’s brewed by Gaffel, and I really like this beer. It’s hoppy, bitter, and fruity, and it kind of reminds me of an IPA.
Hellers
A bit more pungent and has a bitter aftertaste. It was all right, but I usually end up ordering Alt beer from this bar.
Gilden
I thought it was fine in that there is nothing too bad or too stellar with it.
Dom
This was not my favorite. While it was full-bodied, it still somehow managed to taste stale to me.
Colonius
I was pleasantly surprised by this one. It was smooth and without the aftertaste that other Kölsch beers have that I don’t care for. This was one I have never heard of and grabbed at a grocery store while walking around.
Reissdorf
Pretty average in my opinion, for better or for worse. A bit of a bitter aftertaste, but I don’t mind that, but I still would prefer other beers to this one.
Sester
Quite mild and smooth with an herby aroma.
Früh
This is kind of the standard Kölsch, as I see it in most places. I can tolerate it, but I normally wouldn’t go out of my way for it.
Peters
I don’t think I’ve ever had it before, but it was good. Smooth and goes down well.
Sünner
Kind of zesty. A lot of people I know don’t like it. I think it’s one of the more unique Kölsch beers. Whether that’s good or bad is up to you. I have lived next to the brewery for a few years and have only recently gone to it for the first time, haha.
Sion
A lot of my friends won’t drink this. Therefore, I haven’t really ever drunk it (at least knowingly; sometimes you don’t pay attention to what beer the bar serves during Karneval), but it’s not too bad. It’s still not my favorite, but it’s a bit smoother than some of the other Kölsch beers I don’t like. There’s also a mild, bitter aftertaste.
Bonus: Alt
I tend to like Alt beers more than Kölsch (but don’t tell that to people in cologne as you’ll get mobbed). Although Alt beers are brewed in a similar manner to Kölsch, they tend to be a little darker in color, and I find they have a slight toastiness to them that I like. Alt comes from Düsseldorf and the surrounding area, and Cologne and Düsseldorf are always butting heads with each other.
To wrap it up, there are some Kölsch beers that I personally don’t care for and others that I find to be better. I actually do enjoy Mühlen though and would sometimes buy that purposely. However, everyone has their own tastes, and some people I know would be willing to duel someone else over their favorite Kölsch. If you ever get to Cologne, I would implore you to try a few and find out which one you like the most and let me know your thoughts!